Introduction:
A few wines that have come together recently provided a welcome opportunity to think about not only good bubbly, but also fine chardonnay, and the contrasting yet comparable winestyles which emerge when careful winemakers handle syrah / shiraz in Hawkes Bay and South Australia. There were also a couple of pretty serious cabernet / merlots. These wines are not necessarily the current vintage, but even the older ones are often found lingering in specialist wine shops. Premium wine moves slowly, these days, as our winemakers become more and more ambitious with their pricing, while many consumers become more diffident. I hope winemakers and their pricing strategists have taken note of the 2019 Bordeaux en primeur campaign pricing, relative to its reported quality.
The four Elephant Hill reds are special. They represent the future for fine wine in this country, as New Zealand red wine after nearly two long generations, finally shakes off its over-cropped, under-ripe and hybrid red wine legacy, and pays attention to what classical French cropping rates actually mean, in terms of ripeness, dry extract, mouth-feel and quality in the finished wine. In that context, winemaker Steve Skinner at Elephant Hill is making a tremendous contribution to the quality of red wine achievements and standards in New Zealand. Admittedly the four reviewed here reflect his upper two tiers of quality, but keen wine-lovers should make themselves familiar with his offerings.
The tasting also included a few more late-comers from the glorious 2016 vintage in the Southern Rhone Valley. The best 2016s represent some of the most exciting Southern Rhone reds I have seen, over the years. There was another example in the tasting. As I have over-emphasised before, the best of them offer a level of excitement rarely found in red wine. One could hardly have too many of these food-friendly wines in one’s personal cellar.
Finally, three bubblies, one illustrating the remarkable potential we have for the methode champenoise winestyle in New Zealand, once we pay more attention to enhancing dry extract and reducing over-ripeness and ‘fruitiness’, and two reminders of the real thing, enhanced by a few years mellowing in cellar.
Some of the more exciting wines from the June tasting. From the left, the new Hawkes Bay 2018 Radburnd Cellars debut Chardonnay, lovely clone mendoza smells and flavours, cellar-worthy, 18.5 +; 2015 Hawkes Bay Elephant Hill Syrah Earth, one of the richest, yet subtlest and most beautiful syrahs ever made in New Zealand, superb potential, 19 +; 2017 Pirathon Shiraz Gold from the Northwest Barossa Valley, nearly syrah-like, rich and long, only the faintest Australian signature, great cellar potential, 18.5 +; 2016 Domaine des Senechaux Chateauneuf-du-Pape, an exquisite example of this fabulous year, not big but beautiful, 18.5 +; 2016 Elephant Hill Syrah Airavata, the flagship, tip-toeing towards over-ripeness, also cellar potential, 18.5 +; and finally, 2017 Pirathon Shiraz Silver, included not because it is in the top 6 wines, but because it gives such a good taste of the style of the top Pirathon shirazes, yet it is readily available at an affordable price, 18.
THE WINES REVIEWED:
SPARKLING:
nv Champagne Dumangin Premier Cru L’Extra Brut nv Champagne Gatinois Tradition Grand Cru |
1996 C J Pask Brut |
Lemonstraw. Bouquet is wonderfully pure and very particular, immediately reflecting the high pinot meunier, a very strong apple-blossom / hedge roses floral quality, plus the perfume of Pacific Rose apples perfectly tree-ripened, very distinctive. The florals are complexed with apple and red cherry fruit, and textbook baguette-quality lees autolysis. Palate is elegant, very fine-grained, the first sip noticeably dry but the premier cru fruit quality is so good it easily carries the 2 g/L dosage. Beautiful autolysis extends the flavours in mouth admirably, coupled with perfect acid balance. This is a wonderful example of what lees-autolysis means, in the methode champenoise winestyle. With the high meunier, might be less suited to extended cellaring … so probably nearing full maturity now. GK 06/20
Straw with a faint now-orange flush, reflecting some age (the wine has always had a flush). Bouquet immediately makes clear why, the red fruits of a pinot noir-dominant base wine, clear red and black cherry thoughts, even faintly aromatic, complexed by wonderful autolysis, again of total baguette quality. Palate is neat and taut, again pinot noir mainly, elegant dosage around 7 g/L, and noticeably richer fruit / greater dry extract than the other two. This is where the all-grand-cru fruit quality becomes self-evident, the wine nearly succulent. The quality of autolysis to the aftertaste is of reference quality, a little more ‘wholemeal’ than the Dumangin, subtle hazelnut more than cashew. Delightful having high pinot noir and high pinot meunier wines alongside each other. Fully mature now … some might feel the wine a little old, and the score a little high, but I like mature wines. GK 06/20
Quite deep straw with a wash of old gold, deeper in hue than the 1996 Lawson's Chardonnay. Bouquet however dispels any fears the wine is too old, a lovely dry mealy, nearly nutty, baguette-quality autolysis which is very dry to smell, yet still enticing. Palate shows fair body for a New Zealand methode, complex autolysis flavours as befits its seven years en tirage, not obviously chardonnay-dominant now, some additional nutty flavours hinting at anzac biscuits and betraying its age a little, finish still crisp and lively, very long. This is remarkable, for its age. For anybody who still has this wine, be prepared for a major tussle with the cork. Now the gas pressure is lower, and given that I have never seen a longer cork in the methode champenoise winestyle, getting the cork out was the stuff of nightmares. This remarkable wine (which has from the outset shown what can be done with the methode champenoise winestyle in New Zealand, even in Hawkes Bay) is now fully mature … to fading a little. A Kate Radburnd 'play' wine. GK 06/20
CHARDONNAY:
2017 Bogle Vineyards Chardonnay 2016 Craggy Range Chardonnay Les Beaux Cailloux 1996 Lawson’s Dry Hills Chardonnay Marlborough |
2017 Neudorf Chardonnay Moutere 2018 Radburnd Cellars Chardonnay |
A perfect shining lemon, nearly a hint of green, a great young chardonnay colour. Bouquet is sweet, ripe, nearly floral, classic young mendoza-clone chardonnay with its hint of yen-ben citrus aromatics, on golden queen peachy fruit. Below is lees-contact complexity and fragrant yet subtle oak which immediately deepens the bouquet, and draws you in, so you are itching to taste the wine. Palate is vibrant with fresh acid against good fruit, the acid making the oak a little more noticeable now, but it will marry away. On taste alone, you almost wonder if it is a non-MLF wine, on the varietal purity of the yellow-fleshed fruit, plus the long natural acid. Not so. And the subtlety of the high-solids fraction is superb. This is a cellaring chardonnay par excellence, like Tony Bish’s Rifleman showing the advantages of the cooler inland districts of Hawkes Bay, for quality chardonnay. I wish it were a little richer, to guarantee the 20-year mark, but it will be a treat at the 8 – 15 year point. I expect this wine to evolve in bottle in exactly the same way as the 1996 Lawson's Dry Hills Chardonnay, in its day a definitive wine, which I opened soon afterwards, to compare and illuminate. Note the Lawson’s was a little richer, in youth, as fine chardonnay needs to be. Cellar 10 – 20 years. GK 06/20
Lemonstraw, an attractive chardonnay colour, the second deepest of the young chardonnays. Bouquet is intriguingly different on this wine, white florals and a quite lifted grapefruity quality of fruit inclining more to nectarine and white peach than golden queen. It is a little more fruit and lees-dominant, less new oak complexity, than the Radburnd. Bouquet qualities carry through to palate, where there is a softness implying MLF, in a flavour showing attractive fruit and nougat-like complexities. The wine is softer and rounder than the Radburnd, earlier developing. The gentle white fruits and lingering aftertaste are lovely. Cellar 8 – 12 years. GK 06/20
Pure light gold with a wash of lemon still, just a hint (ie no brown). Bouquet shows the exquisite clone mendoza golden queen peachy fruit / varietal character this wine has always had, complexed with sophisticated lees work in barrel. This is a chardonnay bouquet hinting at some Montrachet qualities. Palate has wonderful fruit, body and flavour for its age, attractively married-away oak, mealy and best-nougat lees-autolysis complexities, and crisp but not tiresome Marlborough acid. The wine is drying fractionally now, hence the score eased back a little from its earlier unequivocal gold-medal level, but it is still delightfully acceptable in a dinner / main course setting. This is one of the best chardonnays ever made in Marlborough … but it is time to finish it up now. Some of the bottles are now darker in hue than this (selected) one. GK 06/20
Rich lemon, just a hint of straw, the deepest of the younger four. Bouquet is sweet, rich, ripe and juicy, with explicit chardonnay varietal character, more obvious peachy fruit than the Radburnd, but also hints of tropical fruit, crushed pineapple (without the esters) implying a warmer climate, a touch of vanilla wine biscuit too. Palate immediately has texture and body, lots of fruit which is simple in one sense, a hint of coconut and vanilla, not the the lees autolysis complexity of the top two, but this affordable wine has the body and mouth-feel to be explicitly chardonnay. This is where it wins out, compared with many New Zealand aspiring chardonnays at the same or greater cost. It is let down by the finish, which is unashamedly sweet and populist, low acid, yet subtle. In our still relatively unsophisticated wine-consumer market, most tasters would not notice, just liking the lingering mouth-feel and fruit. This is a very clever wine indeed, pin-pointing exactly what the consumer-in-the-street wants, and assembled to the highest commercial standards: colour, bouquet, and mouth-filling flavour. Cellar 3 – 8 years. It is an interesting commentary on wine snobbery, that there are no tasting notes for Bogle Chardonnay in www.robertparker.com, notwithstanding (or perhaps because of) production of this chardonnay exceeding 500,000 cases per annum. At $US9 to 10 full retail on the domestic market, the New Zealand retail price usually $21 – 22 (and sometimes more) indicates handsome local margins are being made. GK 06/20
Pale lemongreen, the lightest of the four. Bouquet is pale too, with an austere undertone to it flirting with lees autolysis reduction, rather drowning any pretty or floral notes the wine might otherwise have shown. This one clearly smells of MLF. Palate shows quite good fruit in the sense of body, but austere white peach / nectarine flavours hinting at stalkyness and early picking, noticeable acid. In a blind tasting you would think it a Marlborough wine. Intriguing how fine chardonnay continues to (mostly) elude the Craggy Range winemakers (though the 2011 Beaux Cailloux was a great exception). This 2016 is another wine to illustrate that the Gimblett Gravels do not often make the best chardonnay in Hawkes Bay. It will be a lot more interesting after 8 years, cellar 10 – 15 years. As I have noted before, Craggy Range are getting ahead of themselves, in their pricing relative to achieved quality. GK 06/20
SYRAH = SHIRAZ :
Ruby, carmine and velvet, a glorious deep serious-red colour, the deepest of the reds. Bouquet is deep, dark and mysterious, dusky florals almost hinting at violets plus a gentle black pepper aromatic lift, melding into deep cassisy berry, understated oak which will one day show cedary touches, clearly temperate-climate syrah, all exquisitely pure. Palate is rich, great cassisy berryfruit depth, and remarkable freshness, sustained by fragrant oak, but not dominated by it, the black pepper developing a little on the tongue, confirming (at the blind stage) that this should be syrah. In taste terms alone, the dry extract in this wine is perceptibly of classical grand cru proportions, marvellous. Later reference to the specs confirmed that supposition. This is the kind of wine-making approach we need in New Zealand, if our red wines are to make the jump to international recognition and fame. A glorious and totally international temperate-climate handling of syrah, to cellar 15 – 40 years. This wine demonstrates yet again the pre-eminence of The Triangle, as the source of the finest and most floral syrahs in Hawkes Bay. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, fractionally older in appearance than the Pirathon Silver and most of the other deeply-coloured wines. Bouquet is darkly berried, fragrant and aromatic, with the faintest touch of flowering mint (Prostanthera) in boysenberry, blackberry and cassisy berry, not blatantly Australian, very attractive. Like Elephant Hill’s Syrah Stone, a thought of sweet moist prunes and ripeness a bit above optimal syrah varietal character creeps in too. Palate points more clearly to an Australian winestyle, the mint a little clearer, carefully hidden acid, and more new oak. This wine is very rich with great dry extract, comparing with Elephant Hill’s top reds. Finish is drier than Pirathon Silver. This is the kind of shiraz quality Penfolds Bin 28 used to have (at best) back in the 1970s. Lovely wine, Australian shiraz approaching ‘concept syrah’, with the all-French oak giving it some restraint in comparison with the other two Pirathon Shirazes, to cellar 20 – 40 years. GK 06/20
Ruby, some carmine and velvet, virtually as deep as the Earth Syrah, the second-deepest red. Bouquet is rich and very ripe, in comparison with Syrah Earth, some of the fruit ripened just beyond the floral and cassisy phase of syrah to dark plum and mulberry, with just a suggestion of fragrant moist prunes – like Pirathon Gold. In mouth the same ripeness profile continues, the berry rich and deep, a little more tanniny than Earth but not oaky, a hint of char. There is great richness and length of dusky berry flavour, again suggesting good dry extract … later confirmed in the specs. This wine is predominantly Gimblett Gravels, and illustrates the risk of over-ripening syrah on this warm site. The comparison with the Earth Syrah from the Triangle, the district clearly making the most complex syrah in Hawkes Bay, is worth making. Cellar 10 – 30 years. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, just above midway in depth, still a big wine. Bouquet shows more Australian flowering mint than the other two, lifted by noticeable alcohol. Again there is sweet bramble-fruited berry, enticing. Flavour adds oak but in good proportion to the rich fruit, with considerable length of complex berry including dark plummy and boysenberry flavours, with some vanillin from the sweet new American oak component, but a dry finish like Pirathon Gold. This very pure wine should cellar 15 – 35 years, easily. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, rich wine fractionally older in appearance than Syrah Earth or even Pirathon Gold. Bouquet is clearly one of the riper wines in the set, deep and darkly plummy but with a clear suggestion of moist prunes, shaped by clean oak. Flavours are dark and concentrated, but not heavy, wonderfully rich berry, a hint of cocoa, lengthened by seemingly charry oak. Again, dry extract is impressive here. This smells and tastes like a warmer climate wine, with even perhaps a suggestion of acid addition, but all very carefully handled and the oak relatively subtle. It illustrates even more clearly that syrah can all too easily be over-ripened, on the Gimblett Gravels. Cellar 15 – 30 years. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, just above midway in depth, still quite a big wine. Bouquet is complex, deep, fresh, aromatic, with hints of flowering mint on darkly-berried fruit, fragrant. In mouth its characteristics jump into sharper focus, the flowering mint a little clearer on juicy dark berry combining dark plum and boysenberry, on fragrant oak less noticeable than the other two more ‘serious’ and richer Pirathons. Length of flavour on berry is long, subtly extended on sweet oak, almost as if there were a couple of grams residual sugar, acid adjustment to the finish. A simpler wine in one sense, a little less concentrated, yet attractive because of its berry dominance, it's floral and berry qualities not so influenced by oak, and its lingering fruit. I wish the alcohol in all these Pirathons were lower – the crazy thing is, if Australian winemakers would pick their shiraz earlier, in some situations (and seasons, at least) they could lift the wine into the more complex syrah winestyle. Even so, this is remarkable new-generation Australian shiraz, and great value at the price. It shows much of the style of the more expensive other two. Cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, noticeably older than most in the set, midway in depth. Bouquet is fragrant with an older maturing component to it, on browning cassisy berry, not clearly varietal but winey and pure, subtle oak. Palate adds browning mulberry to cassisy flavours, good ripe berry characters, vanillin oak subtly lengthening the flavour. This is a slightly unusual wine style (in New Zealand), but eminently food-friendly. Cellar 5 – 12 years. GK 06/20
CABERNET, MERLOT, AND RELATED BLENDS:
2016 Craggy Range Cabernet Sauvignon The Quarry |
2015 Elephant Hill CS / Me Hieronymus |
Ruby and velvet, a little older in appearance than Syrah Earth, clearly above midway in depth. Bouquet is wonderfully pure, cassisy berry browning a little now, even maybe a delicate suggestion of violets florals on bouquet, grape tannins seemingly more apparent than oak on bouquet. Flavour is long, velvety and wonderfully fine-grain on new oak tannins, with a near-floral lift through the cassisy and plummy dark berryfruits. This wine could not be much riper, if the magic of temperate-climate cabernet sauvignon
winestyles is to be retained. As with Airavata, dry extract is exemplary, showing a value rarely achieved in New Zealand. I did not pick up that it was even richer than Airavata, at the blind stage. Some maturity is already starting to show. Cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, not quite the carmine of youth but clearly more youthful than 2015 Hieronymus, the third-deepest wine. Bouquet is complex, sweet dark berries with thoughts of cassis and blackberry, potential cedar to emerge, but also a worrying hint of stalks and nasturtium, detracting. Palate shows more oak than Hieronymus, the oak exacerbated by noticeable acid, and less body / dry extract than the Elephant Hill reds. Even though the concentration of berry is reasonably good by traditional New Zealand red wine standards, there is the thought of a cabernet hole in the palate, and ripeness is critically lacking for a supple and fragrant claret style priced at $120. The finish though cassisy is relatively hard and short. The price is high for the quality achieved: currently you can order en primeur 2019 Ch Branaire-Ducru, 2019 Ch Langoa-Barton, and 2019 Ch Giscours for a full landed price less than $120. And plenty of others of more modest address, much less. There is not much doubt which would provide the more enchanting drinking, at table. Will soften in cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 06/20
GRENACHE, SYRAH, MOURVEDRE & RELATED BLENDS:
Ruby, below midway in depth. Bouquet on this red illustrates to perfection the aromatic garrigue complexity so characterising better Southern Rhone Valley wines, seamlessly integrated with red fruits, red plums and raspberry mainly, plus trace cinnamon. Palate is immaculate, wonderful fruit / tannin / acid balance, sweetly-fruited yet dry, ripe and long, bursting with flavour, the alcohol well-contained. This wine epitomises all that is beautiful about the 2016 vintage in the Southern Rhone Valley. It is not a big Chateauneuf-du-Pape, more an elegant one in the style of a top Gigondas, with the alcohol remarkably well-hidden, in comparison with the Pirathons. Grenache magic again. It will give immense pleasure at table. Cellar 10 – 25 years. GK 06/20
Ruby and velvet, about midway in depth. Bouquet is delightfully pure, with nearly a floral suggestion melding with slightly spicy (cinnamon) red fruits and berry, all shaped by older oak. Palate is more clearly aromatic, garrigue complexity on red and darker fruits showing a little development, plus fragrant older oak. Finish brings back the cinnamon thought, slightly drying relative to Les Senechaux, and not quite as rich as that remarkable wine. A model good southern Rhone red which will be great with food, to cellar 10 – 20 years, perhaps longer. GK 06/20
Ruby, below midway in depth. Bouquet is lightly spicy and piquant, slightly gamey, with a clear garrigue, silver pine and cinnamon spicy lift, on red fruits. Palate is fragrant, medium weight, grape tannins but scarcely any apparent oak, unusually spicy and long for its weight, with a very dry and food-friendly finish. Not quite the purity, body, and charm of the Espiers Gigondas, but appealing in its own right. Cellar 8 – 15 years. GK 06/20
Ruby, below midway in depth. Bouquet is nearly floral in a quiet pinot noir sense, sweetly ripe and red-fruited, a touch of aromatic black pepper, very clean, not giving much away at this early stage. Palate shows somewhat darker red fruits with a lovely tannin structure, not as grenache-dominant as some of these southern Rhone blends, fine-grained and furry as if grape tannins dominate, older oak, good length considering it is not a big wine. This is another wine (at a more modest level) to show the aromatic excitement of the 2016 vintage in the Southern Rhone Valley, though it is much quieter than Les Grames for example. It is more aromatic and less plump than the 2015 Guigal Cotes de Rhone, but like it, represents phenomenal quality and technical achievement, for the quantity made. Now that the wine is syrah-dominant, I am wondering if it will cellar as well as the grenache-dominant wines from the 1980s. Cellar 8 – 15 years. GK 06/20
Ruby, a little older than some. Bouquet is quiet in a red-fruited style, probably grenache (ie at the blind stage), initially an odd note not quite garrigue as usually recognised, but it breathes up: best decanted. Palate is clean, dry, a bit short relative to the label, very much in a good Cotes-du-Rhone style, a little softer, rounder and richer than the 2016 straight Chateauneuf-du-Pape from this house, but not as rich as the Guigal Cotes-du-Rhone. Some disappointment here, at the price. Cellar 5 – 15 years. GK 06/20
Ruby, the third to lightest wine. Bouquet is quiet, a light floral lift on slightly spicy red and darker fruits, clean. Palate is lightly juicy, again red fruits, a trace of cinnamon, a trace of stalk, some fruit sweetness, clean and pure but tending light, grenache dominant. More Cotes du Rhone than Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but saved by its relatively long finish, implying better dry extract than some Cotes-du-Rhones. Cellar 5 – 12 years. GK 06/20
Ruby, below midway in depth. This is another wine with attractive southern Rhone florals, aromatics, and garrigue complexity, including some silver-pine notes and suggestions of brett, on fragrant red berry fruits, cinnamon, and what seems big old oak, though none is admitted to. Palate highlights the garrigue even more, very aromatic fruit, again you would swear some older oak, medium weight but not as rich as the Guigal ‘yardstick’ Cotes-du-Rhone, long, drier than some other of the Rhones in this batch. Cellar 3 – 12 years. GK 06/20
Ruby, well below midway in depth. Bouquet is again fragrant and aromatic on red fruits, but it is not as ripe as Setier, with some aromatic garrigue complexity, and a little more brett. Palate is not as well-fruited as some of the wines in this style, cinnamon grading to nutmeg spice as well as red fruits, drying to the finish, noticeably short, but still food-friendly. Both this wine and Setier are said to be vat-raised, but both have some gentle brett character – which at first sight would seem illogical. But to judge from the Chateaneufs, brett must be a constant part of the Pegau winery ambience, and no doubt odd bits and pieces are added to these cheaper labels also. Apart from purists who become hysterical about any perceptible brett, this character merely serves to make the two Pegau everyday reds more food-friendly. Cellar 3 – 10 years. GK 06/20
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